Design leaves bad taste in Times critic’s mouth

Outspoken Sunday Times restaurant critic AA Gill clearly knows his radicchio from his rocket, but he is now carving out a new career as a design connoisseur.

While chewing over a recent repast in the paper, Gill’s thoughts turn to the subject of design. ‘Now, all sorts of things make London expensive,’ he pontificates, ‘but most of all, it’s the absurd amount of money thrown into design.’

He suggests that our restaurants should spend less money on designer interiors and ‘take a tip from Rome, where eating is still cheap, decoration is minimal and design unknown’.

The truth hurts doesn’t it?