Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton have designed a new print for the project, based on an Indian textile from the museum’s fabric collection, the Clothworkers’ Centre for the Study and Conservation of Textiles and Fashion.
The pair visited the centre to look at fabrics that were influenced and produced by multicultural techniques. “After much debate, we focused on one piece – a stripped-back cotton textile with wool embroidered pattern detailing,” Cotton says.
The material is a Lhota Naga man’s cloth, made in India in 1947, and consists of three panels sewn together and embroidered with horizontal bands of red wool and vertical blue stripes.
The designers used screen printing and weaving techniques to increase texture, Cotton says. “We wanted the print to have a sense of traditionalism, while also showing a limited palette and simplification, to give it a modern feel.”
This is the second V&A membership pack redesign to take place, after artist Rob Ryan recreated the design in 2012. The refresh now happens every two years.
Agi & Sam won this year’s GQ Breakthrough Fashion Designers Award, and also won the Emerging Talent Award – Menswear at the British Fashion Awards 2013.
Both have worked with Alexander McQueen, Cotton having produced prints for him and Mdumulla having worked as part of his menswear team. The V&A will host an exhibition on the fashion designer in 2015, entitled Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty.